by Ed Weitzman

Compared to the British Mark 1, Vickers machine gun, the US Model 1915 Colt Vickers was only manufactured for a short period of time. The Colt gun was used by the U.S. during World War I and replaced with the Browning M1917 machine gun in 1918. The British Empire on the other hand, used the Vickers gun both in World War I and World War II and did not retire it until 1968.

The Vickers made by the Colt Patent Firearms Manufacturing Company, under license from the firm of Vickers Sons and Maxim Ltd., (VSM), is a copy of its British-made counterpart. Differentiating the two has been made even more difficult by the fact that we gave almost all our entire leftover Vickers inventory to England during the lend lease program. After the war they were disbursed to other countries, a majority going to Egypt, and they apparently made little or no attempt to keep the original Colt made-parts together and separate from the Vickers made guns they had also obtained.

US Vickers guns will commonly be found in caliber 30 US, .303 British and 7.92x57mm and less commonly in 7.62×54 Russian and 11mm. The original US guns and those given by the British War Department to the Home Guard were in 30-06. Some guns were converted to .303 British and given to Egypt. The Egyptian guns that were captured by the Israelis during the Six Day War were then converted to 7.92x57mm. One of the virtues of the Vickers design is the ease of which the caliber may be changed.

Fortunately, for today’s collectors, the Vickers and Colt companies each had their own distinct inspector’s markings that they applied to their parts. These markings, along with several major differences in the guns themselves allow collectors to determine just who made a specific gun or part. I will attempt to show, by way of a pictorial comparison these differences and markings. There were other countries that over the years manufactured Vickers parts, but for purposes of this comparison we will deal with the Colt and the Vickers Company made guns. British guns made by Vickers Sons & Maxim had most of the parts marked with a VSM stamp. After the death of Hiram Maxim the name of the company was changed to Vickers Armstrong and following that, parts were marked VA. Colt manufactured parts were marked with an “u/v”. (I haven’t a clue what that stands for).

The tripods for the two Vickers guns were almost identical, except for the earliest Colt Vickers, which used a Springfield armory MKII tripod. The differences are found in the configuration of the rear leg and the placement of the traversing lock. On the Colt tripods are also found the mysterious u/v markings.

After 1918 many of the original Colt ground configuration guns were altered to aircraft configuration. This involved cutting louvers in the water jacket for air-cooling and the conversion to 11mm. Originally, when these guns were converted from ground to aircraft configuration, they were renumbered with an A prefix serial number. These guns were sold as Dewats to collectors in the 1930s and many registered during the amnesty. Some of the sideplates (from these ground guns, turned aircraft guns) were subsequently removed and married to Colt ground gun parts kits imported from overseas (the ones captured by the Israelis). This explains the ground guns with aircraft serial numbers.

Generally, there were three categories of differences in the US and British guns. The photographs in the A group illustrate physical differences. The B group shows the variation in markings, presumably by inspectors. Lastly, the C group shows the difference in serial numbering. I cannot begin to speculate about the reasons for these differences; I’ll leave that up to you. While I have not examined all of the guns made, these variations have been consistent on all of the Vickers guns that I have had the opportunity to examine.

One of the more fascinating aspects of studying machine guns, are the many variations in the manufacturing process, resulting at least in part from the many contractors involved. The differences in the finished product that these variations produce are sometimes subtle and sometimes glaring.

Group A Photos

Group B Photos

Pictures in this group show the various parts on the Vickers gun where the inspectors marks may be found. VSM or VA for the British gun and u/v for the U.S. gun.

Group C Photos

By Dr. Ed Weitzman

When I fired my first water-cooled MG, I looked the same way I did after my first swimming lesson, as there was very little left of the original packing material to keep the water in the gun. Attempts at finding a suitable replacement for the asbestos twine (wouldn’t want my MG declared a toxic waste site by the EPA) led me to a modern alternative, the O-ring. This has proven to be a reliable, inexpensive and effective substitute for asbestos packing.

A Browning 1917, and a MkI Vickers were converted to O-ring barrel seals. It has shown to be superior to the traditional methods of keeping the coolant in the gun. No modification to the gun is required but access to a lathe will be needed.

The first step is to obtain the proper size O-rings. Both the Browning and the Vickers take the same size rear O-rings. I use a double seal, Buena-N O- ring (shaped in cross section like a 4 leaf clover ) dash No. 119 (3/32 x 15/16 x 1 1/8). For the front, I recommend the use of Viton as these withstand high temperatures better than neoprene. The Browning muzzle requires a dash No. 115 O-ring (3/32 x 1 1/16 x 7/8) and the Vickers, a dash No. 208 (1/8 x 5/8 x 7/8).

The packing groove in the barrel is wide enough to accommodate two rings side by side but not deep enough. Here is where our lathe comes into play. First remove and discard the old packing, then, with a sharp cut-off tool, you must deepen the packing groove until the barrel with the O-rings in place is a sliding fit in the trunion of the gun. It should just slide out when the gun is vertical. Take it slow, just taking a few thousandths at a time and the proper fit will be obtained. Apply a coat of high temp grease to the O-rings before attempting to fit them to the gun.

Don’t turn off the lathe yet, you still have a front spacer to make. The original front packing is much wider than the O-ring that will replace it and the spacer fills in the void. The easiest material to use is brass. The Browning spacer is .8175 OD x. 6875 ID x .280 wide. The one for the Vickers is .825 OD x .640 ID x .280 wide. You may have to experiment with the width to obtain a size that just compresses the O-ring when the muzzle gland is tight. The edge of the spacer that contacts the O-ring should have a 45-degree bevel.

The old front barrel packing is removed and the barrel is placed into the gun .The proper size greased O-ring is then placed on the muzzle of the barrel followed by the brass spacer. These are pushed into place and the muzzle gland is then tightened until it is snug. With the Vickers gun, the O-ring is placed in the packing cavity before the barrel is put into the gun. Next, the water jacket filled with water (or a coolant mixture of soluble oil and water), and your shooting session can begin. This shouldn’t leave you looking like you just had a swimming lesson.

All materials except the spacer, are available from McMaster-Carr Supply Co, PO Box 440, New Brunswick, N.J. (732-329-6666) nj.sales@mcmaster.com

Viton O-ring 115 #9464K28
Viton O-ring 208 #9464K67
Buena N O-ring #90025K248
Water soluble oil #1310K1
Hi temp silicone grease #1252K32

MAC-Waffle Cook Off at Knob Creek

The second semi annual SAR/NFA list, MAC-waffle cook off at Knob Creek was an unprecedented success. The grand prize (dinner for two at Mark’s Feed Store) was hotly contested by no less than TWO entrants, in contrast to only one entry last spring. The two contestants could be seen early in the evening tuning up their MAC- waffle irons for the final cook off. A little digression here would be in order to enlighDr. Ed Weitzmanten the readers as to the origins of this, the “Creedmore” of the MAC-waffle competitions.

About a year or so ago, a thread was being bandied about the Internet regarding the public sale of unfinished MAC frame flats. There was a question raised as to the suitability of the use of MAC frame flats for anything other than making an illegal or an equally useless, post 86 MAC. One astute participant in the exchange pointed out that the MAC frame flats could, in the hands of a skilled Class 2, be transformed into a perfectly legal MAC waffle iron, thereby making their sale perfectly legitimate. At that point in the discussion the eminently distinguished editor of SAR and world renowned waffle connoisseur, Dan Shea, spoke up and offered a prize to the person creating the best MAC waffle at our traditional KC computer geek Bar-B-Que.

At the spring cook off, Mark the Serbu unceremoniously snatched the coveted award out Dan’s hands. His lone entry was determined to be a real MAC waffle iron only after a rather pancake looking thing came out from between the frame flats. In deference to Mark, however, it must be noted that the thing did actually taste something like a waffle (with a slight Hoppes #9 aftertaste).

At the fall cook off, two magnificent MAC waffle irons were entered to compete for the coveted award. David Wigands entry was a MAC shaped waffle iron accompanied by a pre ban LCFD waffle iron. The other equally impressive entry by Jay Lottaguns was a massive quatro-waffle iron hinged together by MAC frame flats. After a suitable inspection by the contest officials, to ensure that actual MAC frame flats were used in the construction of the irons, both irons were preheated to the proper temperature on the grill, then a prepared waffle mix was poured into each MAC-waffle iron. Without any further coaching or assistance the contestants proceeded to the cook off. After what seemed like an eternity, Dave was the first to remove his entry from the grill, followed in about 2 minutes by Jay’s iron. Both MAC-waffle irons were opened to reveal (to everyone’s surprise) waffles. The waffles were then coaxed out of their grids and presented to the chief judge, Edward (doc) Weitzman. Who, at great personal risk, actually tasted the first entry. After rinsing out my mouth with some handy home brew, the second entry was tasted. Unable to decide on one entry over the other and their being only one prize, an alternate judge was called in. Jos. Faggiola, the world renowned Epicurean, after being made an offer he couldn’t refuse, agreed to cast the tie breaking vote. After tasting both MAC-waffles in turn, Joe proclaimed Dave Wigand the winner. The only visible flaw in Daves MAC-waffle was that the rear end of the MAC was broken off as it was removed from the iron (Serbu, did you have a hand in this?). However, cosmetics were not a factor in this contest, only taste counted.

Dan’s note: This obscure cult of machine gun geeks who simultaneously exist in cyberspace and IRL, very seldom physically meet. When they do, it is usually at one of the Class 3 world’s shoots. There are several of these groups…and most participate in Bar-B-Que’s similar to the above described NFAlister event. The gauntlet has been thrown down, that at the April Knob Creek Shoot, there will be an “open” class as well as the semi-annual MAC-waffle cookoff. This open class will allow other entries than the MAC flats, as in the talented individuals who create something out of these peculiar items, ie. Sten tubes, MAC flats, or any other “Unfinished dummy receivers” creating something of exquisite or at least interesting culinary design, will be eligible. Let your creative juices flow! SAR will bring more reporting from the cutting edge of small arms as it happens.

Errol Back-Cunningham Served in the 1st South African Infantry (1SAI) in ’73 and latterly Cape Town Highlanders (CTH) between ’74 – ’83. Did my first service at Oudtshoorn Infantry. Base home of the infantry school in ’73 where the Vickers MG’s in the process of being re-chambered for .308 (7.62 NATO).

Some of the old .303 barrels in use at Oudtshoorn were so worn by then that we were experiencing trouble at 100 yds.

I was enamored with this beautiful piece of deadly machinery the first time I laid my eyes on one. That was in the epic movie, Lawrence of Arabia. The Arab army, under the command of TE Lawrence, had blown up a Turkish troop train. With two Vickers guns, they opened fire on the surviving Turks. The Vickers guns blazed away, belts dancing into the feed blocks, cocking levers flying back and forth; grim faced gunners emptying belt after belt into the hapless foe. I must have watched that scene a dozen times. Struck by the awesome combination of form and function in the Vickers gun, I was thoroughly hooked. When Dan asked me to start a series on the Vickers gun, I thought of the mountains of information available, and decided the best way to contribute was to start with the basics. This article deals with the disassembly, reassembly, and loading of the Vickers MKI machine gun.

The final design of the Mark l Vickers gun was the result of the needs of the British Commonwealth’s armed forces for a lighter, less expensive weapon to replace the heavy Maxim gun, which was adopted several years earlier. The new MKI Vickers gun was a result of a major redesign to lighten and refine the older Maxim gun. For this reason the Vickers Company initially referred to the gun as the “Light Maxim”. With its adoption by the army it was designated the MKI.

VICKERS DISASSEMBLY

The first step in disassembly of the gun is the same as with all guns; make sure it is not loaded. Due to its feed mechanism, the Vickers is somewhat more complex in this endeavor than most firearms. A live round can be in the chamber, or in the feed block in the extraction position at the top of its vertical travel, or in the feedway awaiting transport by the feed slide to the extraction position. Rotating the crank handle three times will ascertain that there are no cartridges in any of these three positions and ensure an empty gun.

The “Lock” is the part that one might term a “Bolt” in other firearms. To remove the lock we must open the rear top cover, grasp the lock with the left hand then rotate the crank handle up and all the way to the rear,(fig1) while pulling upward on the front portion of the lock.(fig2) Then slowly lower the crank handle. When the lock has exited the gun it can then be rotated and removed from the connecting rod. (fig3) This may sound elementary, but make sure there is not a loaded cartridge in the lock before placing the lock aside. The firing pin is capable of striking the primer by accident, creating a sort of airburst from the cartridge. This would cause a negative experience. Close the top cover, open the feed block cover and pull upward on the feed block removing it from the gun. (fig4)

Moving to the muzzle end of the gun; remove the split pin holding the outer casing onto the muzzle gland.(fig5) Twist the casing 1/6th turn and pull it off of the gland.(fig6) If the outer casing is struck use a 1 1/4” to 3” adjustable spanner hook wrench in the notches of the front cone to facilitate removal. The same spanner wrench can next be use to remove the muzzle cup.(fig7) If the cup hasn’t been removed for some time it may be frozen to the barrel threads. The judicious use of an overnight penetrating oil soak and the light application of heat from a propane torch will facilitate the removal of the cup(fig8). The muzzle gland is removed next by unscrewing it with the spanner wrench.(fig9)

We next move to the rear handle and backplate assembly. This assembly is removed by unscrewing the “T” shaped upper fixing pin(fig10) and rotating the grips to the rear and down.(fig11) The right and left slides are then removed from the gun.(fig12) Push the fuzee cover forward, disengaging it from the front fixing pins, then unhook the fuzee chain assembly from the spring and place the fuzee assembly aside.(fig13) Rotate the fuzee chain assembly 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the crank.(fig14) By pulling the crank handle and connecting rod to the rear, the barrel, connecting rod and recoil plates are removed as an assembly from the rear of the receiver.(fig15) The recoil plates are then separated from the barrel trunions, freeing the barrel from the plates.(fig16) The steam tube is removed by removing the lock screw and unscrewing the steam tube with a large screwdriver. This is usually not necessary and not recommended for routine maintenance and cleaning. The rear cover and feedblock cover are secured by a common screw.

FEEDBLOCK & LOCK

Disassembly of the feedblock is accomplished by using the “T” pin to push out the lever pin (fig17)and then, using a brass drift pin and suitable supports, drive off the lower feed lever. The upper feed lever is then removed and the feed slide drawn out of its slot.(fig18) Removal the of cross pin(fig19) frees the lower belt holding pawl and spring from the feedblock.(fig20) Disassembly of the grip plate is simply a matter of unscrewing the lower securing pin to remove it from the gun and then unscrewing the trigger lever axis pin and the safety catch axis pin,(fig21) all the parts will then unceremoniously fall into your lap. Paying attention to how the parts go together provides wonderful dividends when reassembling any mechanical device. To reassemble the feedblock, replace the slide, lower pawl, pawl spring and fixing pin into the positions they normally occupy. The top and bottom feed levers are then replaced making sure the stud on the top lever engages the hole in the feed slide and locks in place with the split pin.

Disassembly and assembly of the lock was best described by George Ironside of Vickers Ltd., in a manual he wrote in 1917 for Colts Patent Firearms Mfg. Co. This was to be issued to the US Troops with their Vickers gun. He instructs as follows: “Remove the lock from gun. (If already out of gun see that it is cocked). (fig22)Press out the side levers pin and bushing and remove side levers (Use the “T” pin from handle block (fig23)or the special steel drift). Detach lifting levers. Slide off carrier. (fig24)Depress safety sear and fire the lock by pulling on handsear. (Note: – Keep hand clear of firing pin hole). Press out tumbler pin and remove tumbler.(fig25) Press out hand sear axis pin and remove hand sear and mainspring. Depress safety sear and allow firing pin to drop out.(fig26) Unhook safety sear and remove it with its spring, but do not spring from the safety sear.(fig27) Note: The safety sear axis pin is not a removable part being riveted to the lock frame. Push out gib spring plate and remove gib spring and gib from carrier. To assemble the lock; Replace gib, gib spring and gib spring plate in carrier. From this stage have flat in left hand, keyway side uppermost. Insert safety sear with spring. Insert firing pin. Place tumbler and insert pin. Place hand sear and insert pin. Slide on carrier (firing pin being in cocked position). Put on side levers and secure with bushing and side levers pin. With firing pin forward in fired position, insert mainspring, pushing it into place. Full cock the lock.”(fig28)

FINAL REASSEMBLY

The grip assembly is reassembled by replacing the safety catch, trigger and trigger bar lever in their respective recesses and replacing their retaining screws. The grip assembly is attached to the gun with the lower grip retaining screw and nut and then placed in the open (horizontal) position. The balance of the gun is reassembled by first placing the recoil plates and crank assembly on the barrel trunions, and ensuring that the packing is in place. Then insert the assembly barrel first into the rear of the receiver. Guide the barrel forward into the water jacket until the muzzle protrudes from the front of the water jacket. As the crank handle enters the rear slots of the receiver, care must be taken to see that the muzzle packing is not dislodged by the barrel as it enters the front packing gland. With the barrel and recoil plates in place the fuzee spring chain is inserted in the recess in the crank and given a 1/8 th turn counter-clockwise to engage the locking tabs. The fuzee spring hook is then engaged in the fuzee chain and the fuzee cover pushed forward hooking the front notches under the front fixing studs. The two slides are placed in the receiver making sure the slide with the roller goes in the right side and the slide with the fuzee stud goes in the left. The grip plate is then rotated upwards and locked in the closed position by replacing the T fixing pin.

Replace the feed block in the receiver, making sure the feed lever crank is engaged in the slot in the recoil plate extension by pushing the feed slide all the way into the feed block while lowering the block in place.

Replace the muzzle gland and tighten with the spanner wrench, followed by installing the muzzle cup. A small amount of anti-seize compound applied to the barrel threads will make future removal easier. Tighten the cup snugly with the spanner wrench. A moderate rap to the spanner wrench with a rawhide mallet will prevent loosening of the cup during firing. The outer booster casing is engaged in the attaching lugs of the muzzle gland and turned clockwise. It will stop with the fixing holes lined up wherein you place the split pin.

If you removed the front and rear covers, they are replaced by securing with their common screw and nut. Open the rear cover and replace the lock by engaging it on the crank pin, turning it to line up with the rails on the barrel extensions, then lower it into the receiver. Cycling the crank once will engage the lock in its guide recess and return it to its forward position. Closing the rear cover completes your reassembly.

LOADING

Now for the fun part. Along with the gun, tripod and ammunition, I would recommend you also take along coolant, a funnel, some hi temp grease, and oil. Other items in your “Kit” should include a steel cleaning rod, broken cartridge extractor, screwdriver, pliers, a wooden mallet, hook spanner wrench, one welders glove, packing cord, and a spare lock if you have one. You will find that if you take a spare lock along, nothing will break. If, however, you don’t have one, something inevitably will break. Mr. Murphy may well have had a hand in designing the Vickers.

Set up the tripod, making sure the leg position locking levers are tight. You should give each one a rap with the mallet after hand tightening. Secure the gun in the tripod with the front and rear trunion pins. For a coolant, I have found a 10-1 mixture of water and soluble oil to be ideal. The soluble oil is sold by industrial supply houses and is used as a lubricant and coolant for machining operations. After the coolant is drained from the gun, the water evaporates leaving a protective oil coating inside the water jacket. This stuff is sold by the gallon and is relatively inexpensive. I save and reuse mine, so a gallon will probably last either five years, one World War, or 50 strafing attacks on Turkish troop trains. Using your funnel (you did remember to bring one, didn’t you?) fill the water jacket about 3/4 full with the coolant mixture and replace the brass filler plug.

Place the belt box on the ground below the feed block on the right side. Withdraw the belt from the box and insert the metal tab into the feed block, grasping the tab as it protrudes through on the right side. While maintaining tension on the belt with the left hand, rotate the cocking lever all the way to the rear and release it. This allows the first round to advance into the extraction position in the feed block and as the lock closes the extractor rises to grasp the rim of the cartridge. Still maintaining tension on the belt, rotate and release the cocking lever a second time. This withdraws the round from the belt, cams the extractor down and with the forward stroke chambers the round and returns the extractor up to grasp the rim of the next round. The Vickers is now loaded and ready to fire.

Grasp the grips with both hands and while lifting the safety bar with the index fingers, press the trigger with the thumb. The first round will fire, and the whole loading/ firing process is repeated automatically until the belt is empty or the trigger is released. Let loose an audible sigh of satisfaction, and insert another belt.

If a partially empty belt is to be removed from the gun, you must grasp the upper and lower belt pawls and, while pressing in on the pawls, withdraw the belt from the right side of the feed block. Then by rotating the cocking lever twice you will insure that there are no remaining cartridges in the gun. As an additional safety precaution, before placing anyone in front of the gun, open the rear cover and withdraw the lock. Give the lock a 1/4 turn clockwise and then place it on the receiver rails, thereby “hanging the lock”.

In future issues of SAR, Dr. Weitzman will be presenting articles on the various models of the Vickers guns, as well as tips for shooting and maintaining these fine weapons. If you have Vickers questions, send them to Dr. Weitzman C/O SAR, and we will try to wheedle, bribe, or pistol whip him into answering you.